Drink | Cairn O'Mohr
Ron Gillies makes an interesting point. He reminds us that the pleasant fermented drink we call wine can be made with all kinds of produce, but for various historical reasons, it’s the stuff made using grapes which has become famous. He’s right, of course – it’s just that most of us have never stopped to think about it.
Fortunately, Ron did. And the result is one of Scotland’s most original and characterful business ventures. You’ll find Cairn O’Mohr Wines at Errol in the fertile Carse of Gowrie, between Perth and Dundee. Here, the rich alluvial soils support not only the soft fruits, such as strawberries, with which the area is most strongly associated, but a kind of lushness and productivity in the hedgerows and woods – and that’s also what interests Ron.
Though he does use specially grown local strawberries, raspberries and gooseberries in his range of wines, he’s also a talented enough winemaker to capture the wild flavours of elder, bramble and oak.
That’s why, on a typical day in season, you might see him out with his team early in the morning, stepladder on his shoulder, ready to harvest, say, a crop of oakleaves or elderflower. Then they return to the winery where they make tea. However, this is not just a morning cuppa but the expression used for the cleaned plant material which is put into a large boiler. At the same time, yesterday’s boiling gets strained, sugar is added, then yeast plus other fruity ingredients. Left to their own devices, the yeasts do their alcoholic thing (hope this isn’t too technical), then it’s on to the filtering, bottling and storing stages.
The results win awards. Cairn O’Mohr attended the first-ever National Fruit Wine Awards in 2003 and practically swept the boards, and have maintained their high profile there in subsequent years. This year, they’ve picked up two more at the Great Taste Awards. The company continues to grow, their wines appearing not just in Scottish gift and speciality food shops but also on ‘High Street’ supermarkets. On-site , tours and tastings are easily arranged (check in advance). Their shop also features some ‘limited edition’ lines that aren’t found elsewhere, so it’s always worthwhile checking it out.
Ron Gillies is in charge of a fast-expanding business but he’s never lost his enthusiasm for wine-making - which he’s given a uniquely Scottish flavour.