Deli | Heart Buchanan
In Fiona Buchanan’s own words she got ‘bitten by the serious cooking bug’ – and it was as simple as that. There was, for instance, the time spent in the kitchens in a top quality restaurant in Edinburgh, plus the wine course and the sommelier qualification. There were the years assisting Nick Nairn both in media ventures and restaurant operations. (She was, for example, the prep. chef in ‘Island Harvest’.) There were food shows and demonstrations both in the UK and in exotic locations like Shanghai. And all the time the opportunities for networking meant she was meeting quality food producers in Scotland and beyond.
All of this experience and drive was eventually to find its outlet at Heart Buchanan in Byres Road, Glasgow. To describe it simply as a delicatessen is to slightly miss the point. Of course it’s got great charcuterie, fine cheeses and olives all in variety – and lots more goodies - but Fiona sees it more as a kind of functional cook’s store cupboard as well. Even more importantly, it’s also where you can turn up and take away – ready to re-heat – the kind of cooking that’s defiantly going to impress your guests. (You can even bring your own dishes to be filled!)
Fiona also admits that filling that particular niche is a seven day job. (She took a Sunday off recently but went hunting for mushrooms by Loch Lomond – so it doesn’t really count.) She likewise confesses to being ‘hands-on’ - though she is also full of praise for her team. A typical day – no such beast, says Fiona - may start with the office admin, then move on to looking at, say, a new idea for a wine promotion or display, or a meeting with a supplier. Then Fiona takes a turn herself on the front counter – the sharp end is the best way of keeping in touch with customers.
Basically, some important Heart Buchanan themes are quality – obviously – which means working with the very best suppliers, whether it’s for smoked salmon from the Uists, home-made jams or Scottish potatoes; then there is the season – so important with menu planning. Equally important is the goal of giving the customers who are planning a special meal, or who simply don’t want to be tied to the stove, a memorable dining experience.
Heart Buchanan is a member of The Guild of Fine Food Retailers and The Slow Food Movement and Fiona’s achievements have also been recognised by being the winner of the Glenfiddich Award for Food 2003. Basically, behind the tiny shopfront on Byres Road (expansion next door imminent!) is a whole philosophy, based on a passion for good food at a reasonable cost. And one more thing: it’s also about fun. That’s the most refreshing part.