Scottish Food | Pork
Well over a century ago landowners, farmers, hotel keepers and crofters kept their own pigs which they would slaughter at the end of the summer and cure to last throughout the winter. Nowadays few of us have sides of ham hanging from the beams and cooked breakfasts are generally reserved for a weekend treat, though frying bacon is undoubtedly one of the most appetising smells in the kitchen.
In Scotland we’re lucky to have some of the best bacon in the world. Ayrshire, the original Scottish bacon, is especially world renowned, with its reputation upheld by such traditional producers as Ramsay’s of Carluke who continue to cure bacon using the same methods and recipe pickle as their great-grandfather back in 1857. Unlike many cheap supermarket imports that shrink to half the size when cooked, leaving a milky-white froth, properly cured bacon is not injected with artificial additives or water. It is brined for about a day and matured for a fortnight, guaranteeing fantastic flavour and a dry texture.
Despite the fact that Ayrshire bacon is so famous, it is the north-east of Scotland that is the stronghold for pig farms, with a third of the total herds concentrated there. Scotland has around 10 % of the UK pig herd and almost all pork produced by the Scottish red meat industry is covered by the Quality Meat Scotland Assurance scheme. QMS Specially Selected Pork is reputed for ensuring stringent standards for animal welfare and production from farm gate to the dinner plate.
A good Scottish breakfast should undoubtedly contain rashers of Ayrshire bacon – along with high-quality sausages, free-range eggs, haggis, black pudding and a tattie scone. Traditional bangers have in recent years got more and more adventurous with their ingredients, such as the Scottish Federation of Meat Traders’ 2006 winner for the Best Speciality Sausage in Scotland - Pork, Leek and Apricot by J & J Preston of Strathaven. Lorne or Aberdeen sausage (square slices of sausage-meat and spices served with no skin) is also popular north of the border.
The Tamworth is thought to be the oldest breed in Britain and these red-haired pigs are gradually reappearing in Scottish farms. Of the native breeds, it is most resistant to sunburn (not that this is generally much of a problem north of the border!) It is sometimes crossed with wild boar to create an Iron Age pig with distinctive, gamey pork.
Wild boar herds once roamed the Highlands back in ancient times until Man hunted them to extinction in the 17th century. Now, however, due to a growing market for more exotic foods in the UK, they are back and there are presently around four wild boar commercial farms in Scotland. These foraging free range animals thrive in our climate and provide meat with a healthy and hearty gourmet character.