Fish & Seafood | Haddock and Herring
Haddock and herring are two of the most widely eaten fish in Scotland, not least because haddock is a popular choice at the chip shop! These fish are extremely good for a healthy diet – although perhaps not the batter or deep frying!
A hefty 30,000 tonnes of herring are landed per annum by Scottish fishermen and herring in oatmeal is a favourite national dish. Potted and soused herring are also popular, as well as kippers – especially for breakfast.
While a kipper is a cold-smoked herring, an Arbroath Smokie is a hot-smoked haddock. Like Parma ham or Champagne, the name ‘Arbroath Smokie’ now has Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) status and can only be used to refer to a haddock which has been smoked in the traditional way within an 8km radius of the east-coast town.
The Arbroath Smokie actually originated in the small cliff-side village of Auchmithie, just a few miles north, where it is said that the fist smokie was discovered after a cottage burnt down and the charred fish were discovered in the embers of the fire and thought to be delicious!
This sounds a little like an old fishwives’ tale – it is more likely that it earned its name after the Auchmithie fisher folk of Scandinavian descent moved to Arbroath at the turn of the 20th century for better economic prospects and to sell their specially cured haddock. They would hang pairs of dried and salted haddock over halved whisky barrels with hardwood fires lit inside. Hessian ‘cloots’ were layered over the sticks of fish and they cooked within about 40 minutes – as they still do today at farmers’ market demonstrations and the back streets of Arbroath. When the fish reach the correct shade of golden brown, they are ready to serve – and the tangy, smoky flavour is revered by chefs and connoisseurs the world over placing the town firmly on the international map.
Finnan haddies are also famous, being haddock that have been split open, brined and smoked to a pale straw-yellow colour. The name comes from the Aberdeen fishing village of Findon (pronounced ‘Finnan’ locally).
Smoked haddock is also an essential ingredient of the famous Cullen skink soup as well as kedgeree. The addition of curry powder to this national breakfast treat came from the Scottish regiment who devised the recipe while they were serving in India. Scots even make use of the heads of large fish which they stuff with liver and oatmeal to make ‘crappit heids’.