Fish and Seafood | Crab

With lobster stocks depleted, crabs have become a much more popular commercial catch around Scotland’s shores, particularly the edible or brown crab (Cancer pagurus) and velvet crab (Necora puber). They share a similar rocky habitat and are widespread around Scotland, although velvet crabs are not as common on the east coast.

The edible crab is larger, weighing over 10lb, although ones found on the shore are generally smaller. They can easily be picked up and the edge of the carapace is crimped like a bridie!

Although available year-round, crabs are at their most delicious from April to November. Choose ones with big claws that feel heavy when you lift them – the bigger they are, the easier it is to scoop out the meat. They should smell fresh and sweet – if there’s a hint of ammonia, put them back!

The soft, brown flesh from under the upper shell is rich and contrasts well with the firmer, sweet, white flesh found in the claws and body. Males have bigger claws than females and more muscle white meat, so they fetch higher prices and it is illegal to land edible crabs carrying eggs.

If cooking at home, it is best to buy them alive, although you can ask your fishmonger to kill them for you. Don’t boil them alive as their legs will fall off and overcook. You’ll need about 4oz (115g) of meat per person – this is about 1lb (450g) for a crab with shell intact.

After boiling for a maximum of 30 minutes, fish out the crab and place it face down. Give its back a good bash with a rolling pin and force the body away from the shell using your thumbs. Pull off the legs and claws, cracking them open to access the flesh. Pick out the meat from the body, taking care to leave behind the gills or ‘dead man’s fingers’.

Eat cold with brown bread, butter and home-made mayonnaise or steam to make a bisque.