Cheese and Dairy | Cheese

Scotland has some of the world’s finest cheeses, made from cows’, ewes’ and goats’ milk. Many are handmade in rural creameries that welcome visitors to show how the age-old process of turning milk into cheese is achieved. Scotland’s northern climate meant that in the past crofts and farmhouses were faced with a short cheese-making season in which the truckles had to withstand being stored (matured) throughout the cold, long winters.

Hard, matured cheese such as cheddar thus became extremely popular, but the introduction of modern temperature control and improved transportation of milk means that artisan cheese makers have re-emerged offering a whole new range of exciting varieties.

An after-dinner Scottish cheese board can take you to all corners of the country from Dumfries and Galloway in the south to Ayrshire, the Western Isles, the Highlands and as far north as Orkney. There are more than two dozen cheese-makers throughout Scotland ranging from large, industrial Cheddar creameries to a handful of small, artisan farmhouses. Ones to look out for include:

Cheddar:
Cheddar is still by far the most popular cheese made in Scotland, accounting for 75 per cent of total production. There are different varieties and tastes and the main creameries are located at Lockerbie, Stranraer, Cambeltown and on the islands of Bute, Arran, Mull, Gigha and Orkney.

Crowdie:
The most ancient cheese in Scotland, Vikings introduced this soft, fresh cheese in the eighth century. A soft, curd cheese, it was originally made from the whey of slightly soured milk. The seasoned whey is squeezed in a muslin bag to remove excess water and left aside for two days before being rolled in oatmeal. The Stone family’s Highland Fine Cheeses is a leader in the resurgence of Crowdie and their Gruth Dhu (or Black Crowdie) is rolled in toasted pinhead oatmeal and black peppercorns. This curdy cheese can also be flavoured with garlic and herbs.

Caboc:
This is another of Scotland’s oldest cheeses, dating back to at least to the 15th century when it was made as it still is today in the Ross-shire region of the Western Highlands. It is produced from an ancient recipe using pasteurised double cream of cows’ milk, without rennet, and ripened for just five days. It is shaped into logs and rolled in toasted oatmeal. Very rich and fatty, it has a nutty, buttery flavour with a sour tang and is a favourite for spreading on crackers or oatcakes.

Strathkinness:
If you want to create a fondue Scottish style, this award-winning variety is similar to Gruyere. Nearly 50 gallons of milk go into making this cheese and, matured for between six to 12 months, there is limited availability.

Bishop Kennedy:
This unpasteurised cheese is named after a 15th century bishop of St Andrews. The rind is washed in malt whisky to produce a distinctive orangey-red crust. Runny and full of flavour when ripe, this full-fat soft cheese replicates the methods once used by Trappist monks.

Blue:
Sometimes referred to as ‘Scotland’s Roquefort’, Lanark Blue is one of the best-known blue cheeses made from sheep’s milk. Sprinkled with mould before curdling, the cheese has green-blue veins. Dunsyre Blue is from the same stable, only made from unpasteurised cows’ milk and has blue-green mould when aged.

Cream cheese:
Howgate is most famous for pioneering the making of continental cheeses in Scotland such as brie and camembert. The artisan cheese-maker originated in the Howgate in Edinburgh, but has since moved to premises at Dundee.

Where to Buy:
Iain Mellis has a renowned cheese emporium where you can try before you buy at the four shops in Edinburgh and one in Glasgow (www.ijmellischeesemonger.com). Or visit creameries, delicatessans, farmers’ markets and the supermarket where there is a growing trend to stock local cheeses.